Exploring The Northern Shore of Loch Katrine
- lomondappletree
- 3 days ago
- 5 min read
The answer is yes. One of our favourite cycle rides is along the north shore of Loch Katrine in the Trossachs.
This is a perfectly smooth, well-maintained private tarmac road with fantastic views and almost no vehicular traffic (we met one car in the whole day!)
Our route started at Loch Katrine Pier, which is only a thirty-minute drive from Appletree Cottage. Following the A81 to Aberfoyle, we then took the scenic drive over the Duke’s Pass. (see previous blog) and turned left at the junction to take the road which runs between Loch Achray to Loch Katrine Pier.
Incidentally, the name Trossachs originates from the short pass between Loch Achray and Loch Katrine, although Trossachs is nowadays used to refer to a much larger area, roughly bordered by Drymen, Callander, Killin and Loch Lomond.
Having parked at the pier, we secured our transport from the excellent Katrine Wheelz bike shop, which has a huge stock of electric and non-electric bikes for hire.
Saddle height adjusted and bells checked, we set off along the road which runs along the north shore of Loch Katrine.
The first part of the road was pretty level and ran close to the water with one of the ubiquitous iron railings so popular with local estates in the nineteenth century, running along between the road and the Loch.
As we looked back, we could see the pier and groups of expectant passengers awaiting their cruise up the loch, in one of the two boats on duty, The Lady of the Lake and the ever-popular vintage steamer Sir Walter Scott. Ferry journeys vary in length, but the best one is from the pier we had just left, right up to the head of the loch and café at Stronachlacher, but more about that later.
The number of pedestrians that had started their stroll along the road from the pier head began to dwindle, and we had the road to ourselves.
A few miles into our ride, we spotted a boathouse and pier in a beautiful spot down on the shore. We took a short detour to explore further. On maps from the mid-1800s, each large house or farm on the loch is shown as having its own jetty. This survivor was the location used for the climactic showdown scene in the most recent film version of The 39 Steps (2008), based on John Buchan's book of 1915 and starring Rupert Penry-Jones, Lydia Leonard, Eddie Marsden and Patrick Malahide. In the film, during all the shooting, a submarine pops up out of the water to attempt a rescue. Thanks to computer-generated imagery!
This film was not the first version of The 39 Steps to be shot in this area. The 1959 edition starring Kenneth More, Sid James and Taina Elg, the property run by Nellie (played by Brenda de Banzie) is the distinctive building in nearby Brig o’ Turk. Taigh Mor on the shore of Loch Achray is a girls' school, and Hannay is misidentified by the police in a group of cyclists up on the Duke's Pass.
Back on our bikes, the route started to ascend the hillside. We were glad of the electric bikes, which made our travelling uphill so much easier.
About halfway down the loch, we paused at a viewpoint by a summit in the road. What a spectacular vista! We could see opposite the Royal Cottage, built for Queen Victoria when she came to open the Loch Katrine to Glasgow aqueduct on 14th October 1859 – see previous blogs.
To the east, we could see the mountainous Ben Venue at 2392ft (729m). Neither a Munro nor a Corbet,t but still an excellent climb with fantastic views.
To the west, we could see the distant Arrochar Alps comprising Ben Vane, Beinn Narnain, Ben Ime and the distinctive Ben Arthur – known better as The Cobbler.
Below the loch sparkled in the sun, and we watched as the ferries plied their trade in the distance.
Soon we were back on the bikes again and descending the hill, through wooded glades. The track was smooth throughout with a tarmac surface which had seen little vehicular use.
It is said that the famous eighteenth-century outlaw Rob Roy MacGregor was born on the shores of the loch at Glengyle House, which still stands today. Rob Roy, a cattle herdsman with some protectionist qualities (as was not unusual for the time), wanted to expand his own herd of beasts. To buy more land, he borrowed a large sum of money from the Duke of Montrose. Unfortunately, he was robbed of the money before he could put it to any use. Montrose was not amused and put pressure on Rob Roy to return the funds. Montrose offered to waive the debt if Rob Roy would bear false witness against the Duke of Argyll, to declare that Argyll had Jacobite leanings. Rob Roy refused and became an outlaw, stealing cattle to make his living. At one point, he is said to have imprisoned the factor for the Duke of Montrose on Factor’s Island – a tiny island off Stronachlacher at the head of the loch. All of this inspired Sir Walter Scott’s novel Rob Roy, which was an international success in its day. Loch Katrine, on the other hand, was the inspiration for Scott’s famous poem The Lady of the Lake.
As we neared the head of the loch, we could see the ancient Portnellen Cemetery, resting place of the MacGregor clan in earlier times, poking out into the loch. A peaceful spot for a final resting place. Though the burial site is not all it seems…
In 1922, the water level of the loch was raised, which meant that the burial ground would be beneath water. The solution was to build up the level of the burial ground by several feet, with the bodies still interred. The grave stones were then placed in their relative positions, and a high wall was constructed around the site.
After about an hour and a half of cycling, and passing the only car we came across on the road during the whole day(!), We arrived at the tiny hamlet of Stronachlacher. Comprising a few dwellings and a pier for the ferries, Stronachlacher’s claim to fame is the excellent little pretty café.
Here we stopped for lunch, with terrific views out of the conservatory windows. After a truly excellent cycle ride, we had the option of putting the bikes on the ferry to take us back to Loch Katrine pierhead. However, having enjoyed it so much, we decided instead to cycle the route back.
