,A quick nip across to Stirling at the weekend was enhanced by some sunshine and clear spells of blue sky.  Only thirty five minutes from Appletree Cottage, Stirling has a great selection of shops and restaurants,  Famous for its massive medieval Castle this small city also boasts Argyll's lodging, the Church of the Holy Rood, a magnificently preserved old town, close by National Wallace Monument and in the summer months Blair Drummond Safari Park.   Today we stopped by the Old Stirling Bridge to explore and take a few photos.

The Old Bridge was built around 14-1500, replacing the earlier wooden structures, one of  which had been the focus of The Battle of Stirling Bridge (11/Sept/1297), when the army under William Wallace defeated the English forces by allowing so many to cross the bridge and then blocking that route for the remainder of the troops.  
The original wooden bridge lay a little upstream of the current Old Stirling Bridge, the stone foundations of the former being visible at low water.
​The Old bridge was the lowest crossing point of the River Forth for several centuries until bridges were built at Kincardine and South Queensferry.

Perched on top of Abbey Craig, where legend has it that William Wallace's troops camped to the hill's commanding position over looking the town of Stirling and the Forth Valley, sits the National Wallace Monument commemorating the thirteenth century leader.  The monument is well worth a visit, particularly on a clear day as the views from the top are fantastic, looking towards Edinburgh in the east and Ben Lomond in the west.
During the 1945 Jacobite uprising the southern most arch was blown up and thereby removed by General Blackney to prevent highlanders and supporters of the Jacobite movement crossing the river.  The arch was rebuilt and the bridge repaired in later years.
In early days duties were charged on goods entering the borough.  Customs men were installed in a covered recess in the centre of the bridge to tax such goods.

Just down stream is the New Stirling Bridge - opened in 1833 and designed by the famous Scottish Engineer Robert Stevenson, father of the author Robert Louis Stevenson (Treasure Island). The new bridge is open to this day and carries the A9 trunk road north to Perth and beyond.  

This is a continuation of a blog of our cycle ride along part of Sustrans Cycle Route 7 in Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park.  
​Starting at Lochearnhead we joined the former Callander and Oban Railway trackbed and continued up the spectacular Glen Ogle.  Although steep sided the route of the railway line contours the hillside to maintain gentle gradients throughout.

As detailed before the line to Glen Ogle opened in 1870 but following Dr. Beeching's infamous report on the railway network produced in the early 1960's the section of the Callander and Oban line between Crianlarich and Callander was scheduled for closure on 1st November 1965.  However, before that date, in the early hours of Monday 27th September 1965, a rockfall occurred in Glen Ogle.  This area had been a constant headache to the operators of the line since construction as landslips and rockfalls were not infrequent.  Following the an engineering assessment of the damage it was decided by the powers that be that there was no economic benefit of clearing the line and shoring up the bank as the line was due to close in just over a month's time.

The rockfall not only closed the Callander and Crianlarich section of the line it also meant the closure of the five mile Killin Junction to Killin section.
A photograph of the rockfall taken in the 1960s soon after the track had been lifted can be seen here: www.railscot.co.uk/img/28/647/

Towards the top of Glen Ogle is a very impressive 12 arch viaduct at the foot of Meall Sgliata which can be seen clearly from the main road which runs along the opposite side of the glen.  

Glenoglehead station is the summit of the line at this point with the route descending gently thereafter towards what was Killin Junction.
We pass the occasional surviving wayside shed, the severed bases of signal posts and other indications of earlier activity until we come to Killin Junction station.

As we arrive at the former Killin Junction station site we see the station has almost been entirely cleared away - only a small portion of the central platform remains.  The route of the line to Killin can be seen in the picture, dropping off to the right.
Killin junction was distinctive as there was no road access.  The station was entirely a junction for the line to Killin.  Older people have recorded memories of long waits at this station for their connecting trains.

 After a good look round its time to return to Lochearnhead.  After a short clime up to Glenoglehead station we have a fantastic long gentle freewheel back to Lochearnhead.
​A great day out in Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park

Some of the buildings en-route were in a poor state of repair but none the less provided a reminder of a harder way of life in days gone by.

Soon the road up the hill turns into a well made path.  This takes a couple of hundred yards until it reaches the railway.

As the path climbs the hill it passes under a bridge which carried the former Lochearnhead, St. Fillans and Comrie Railway.which ran between Balquhidder (where it joined the Callander & Oban railway) and Crieff from where one could continue either to Perth or to Stirling via Gleneagles (formerly called Crieff Junction.  Unfortunately traffic was poor from the start and the Balquhidder to Crieff section closed to all traffic in 1951

When the path from Lochearnhead reaches the railway we are greeted by a fantastic view along Loch Earn which is at the north west boundary of Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park.  As well as the view there is a selection of National Cycle Network signs showing a range of possible destinations.  This is part of Sustrans Cycle Route 7 which in its circuitous 547 miles runs from Sunderland to Inverness and, as it happens, passes the gates of our own Appletree Cottage.

Once on the railway line cyclists and walkers are greeted by several signs...

We are now on the trackbed of the former Callander and Oban Railway.
Formed in 1864 construction finally started in 1866.  The company, seemingly permanently short of funds constructed the line in phases as and when they could afford.  The first section from Callander to the top of Glen Ogle opened in 1870 although coal traffic had been running from Callander to Lochearnhead as early as 1868.  John Anderson who had been appointed Company Secretary in 1865 was renowned for his entrepreneurial drumming up of all possible business to help fund the line and its construction.

There was a rumour that the rails when lifted after the line's closure were sent to Mexico to form part of the transportation system for the 1968 Olympic Games.  However so far no evidence has been uncovered to substantiate that assertion.  

As we continue gently climbing the slopes of Glen Ogle the views along Loch Earn become even more impressive.  
See the second part of this blog for our journey along the northern edge of Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park past the former Glen Ogle summit station and down to Killin Junction.

Here at Appletree Cottage in Croftamie, Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park we're had our first dusting of snow of the year.  Beautiful sunshine, snow on the hills and roads passable - that's how we like it!  

Few cars were out today - though quite a few walkers.  We had an excellent lunch at the But&Ben in Croftamie Village.  Opened just over a year ago the owner lovingly restored the former pub known as the Wayfarers.  The But & Ben is a hugely welcoming change serving excellent food throughout the day and with occasional steak nights.  Well worth a look: www.thebutandben.co

In this weather everything just looks fantastic.  Warm when the sun is out but a little chillier when it goes behind a cloud.
However one assuredly warm place is Appletree Cottage which has proved very popular with guests over the last couple of months with its underfloor heating, wood burning stove and fantastic panoramic views. 

 A beautiful autumn day here at Appletree Cottage and we go down to the shore of Loch Lomond at Ross Priory near Gartocharn to check on the boat.  The view up the loch is stunning.  Hardly a breath of wind and only the odd cloud in the sky....

Looking to the north west we could see the Luss Hills in the distance with the islands of Creinch and Torrinch rising out of the water in-between

Looking to the north east we could see the white buildings of the village of Balmaha nestling on the far shore

Autumn colours are everywhere - not least on the drive out of the grounds of Ross Priory.
Ross Priory is the out of town club for the University of Strathclyde.  Although attached to the university it is open to the public for its excellent lunches.  Well worth a visit.

From Ross Priory at Gartocharn we decided to pay a visit to Balmaha to see what the trees were like there.   The statue of Tom Weir was still in the same position as you would expect.  Behind him the bay of Balmaha was like glass.

Although it was out of season there were still quite a few people around.  Balmaha is a very popular stop off on the route of the famous West Highland Way.  The Oak Tree Inn is an excellent pub in this tiny village - sometimes brewing its own beers and ciders and providing excellent food.

Our hour at the car park was nearly up so it was in the car and back to Shandon Farm and Appletree Cottage.  Hoping this weather continues!

 The Maid of the Loch has been successfully winched out of the water for essential repairs and we went along to have a look whilst killing a few moments in Balloch.
The Maid is a paddle steamer and was the largest of its kind on Loch Lomond. Licensed for 1000 passengers, she was built at A&J Inglis on the Clyde and then dismantled for transportation to Loch Lomond.
The hull was floated up the Leven - just making it under Dumbarton bridge(!)  This was in the days before the weir at Balloch had been built.  The superstructure was transported partly by rail and the entire ship was then reassembled at Balloch and then launched into the waters of the loch on Thursday 5th March 1953

After many years of neglect The Maid of the Loch is currently undergoing extensive refit and refurbishment in anticipation of her once again ferrying passengers up and down the loch on pleasure cruises.  The ship has recently been lifted out of the water at Balloch using a 1902 built steam winch housed in its own building at the end of the slipway.  The winch is open to the public several days throughout the year and for a small fee you can toot the whistle.
.All went successfully on July 14th this year and the steamship was lifted out to the water as you can see in this video:
www.glasgowlive.co.uk/news/maid-loch-watch-iconic-paddle-21057071
However it was a different story in January 2019 when the boat broke free from the substructure and transporter which supported her and headed back into the water.
Crew had to jump to safety and out of the way of the 430 tone vessel.as she careered back down the slipway and into the water.
A video of that unhappy day can be seen here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSJtTRi43JM
For those interested in visiting the Grade A listed which house and having a toot on the whistle more information can be found here: www.maidoftheloch.org/steam-slipway-winch-house

Although restoration work has been continuing for a number of years now there is still much to do on this majestic paddle steamer to once again make her ship shape for recommencing sailings up the loch.  Much of the deterioration appears superficial - that a coat of paint may fix.  Other renovations run much deeper - including the provision of a new boiler.
"Hard hat tours" are currently available around the interior of the ship and they can be booked here: www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/maid-of-the-loch-hard-hat-tour-tickets-169854843409?aff=esfb&utm-campaign=social&utm-content=attendeeshare&utm-medium=discovery&utm-source=fb&utm-term=checkoutwidget&fbclid=IwAR0A9CAlsCH0WFbQQAr-toh2mU0hAs7KXSbia18UB7D1awVVShzMpRfgyD4

The paddles which give the steamer its name appear to be in good order.  Paddle steamers were known for their manoeuvrability which aided docking.
However, the paddle steamers were less agile in rough seas as unlike their screw propellor cousins their paddles were apt to pop out of the water now and again in the choppy water making steering difficult..
The many small wheels of the supporting carriage can be seen in the bottom of the above picture.  They are secured every so often with wooden chocks to prevent the ship rolling back into the water.  A good thing.
More can be found out about The Maid of the Loch at the organisers website here: www.maidoftheloch.org. 
We look forward to when all the work is completed and The Maid of the Loch is once again able to offer tours up and down the length of Loch Lomond.

Noticed this lovely mackerel sky just before sunset.

The first section of the route is a slow gentle climb out of Strathendrick.  Nothing too severe - remember this was a railway and so any gradients were minimal.  Trees overhang this pretty path and there are few people around - only the occasional dog walker.
What we are cycling is actually part of Sustrans Cycle Route 755 which runs from Strathblane to Kirkintilloch using the former railway trackbed.

It is not long until we are away from Strathblane and out of the trees into the wide open beginnings of Campsie Glen.   The Campsie hills and Ballagan Burn are on the left as we cycle along, and on the right is the distinctive volcanic plug of Dunglass..  (See first/top photo) This basalt lump is popular with climbers despite much of its rock being in a loose and a little dangerous to the inexperienced.

Its a glorious day and the views are far and fantastic.  The fields either side of the track are mostly put to grass for livestock with the occasional arable.  The track itself is smooth tarmac and wide enough to two to cycle side by side.

Some of the signs refer to the Thomas Muir Way, obviously not to be confused with the John Muir way.  Thomas Muir the Younger of Huntershill was a Scottish political reformer and lawyer (1765-1799). Known as the "Father of Democracy" more can be found out about his life here: www.theglasgowstory.com/story/?id=TGSCH12
John Muir or "John of the Mountains"  on the other hand is  credited for initiating the National Parks movement in the United States of America. More can be found out about  John Muir here; en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Muir

Soon we reach Kirkintilloch where we lunch in the lovely Nonna's Restaurant and Bar picturesquely set beside the Forth and Clyde canal.  After an excellent meal we jump back on our bikes and make our way back to Appletree Cottage.

Inhabited from at least the 1600s to the mid 1960s Auchindrain is possibly the only village to survive substantially unaltered since the highland clearances of the late 18th and the 19th centuries.  We decided to pay it a visit The village is now preserved and is open in summer months Wednesday thru Sunday so we decided to pay a visit.
Located 6 miles west of Inveraray and 53 miles from Appletree Cottage it took us just over an hour to get there, a very pleasant and beautiful journey along the shores of Loch Lomond, Loch Long and Loch Fyne (see previous blog)
The site nestles in a hollow on the south side of the Inveraray to Lochgilphead road.
The village escaped plans of the mid 1700s which altered many dwellings in the district to crofts.  Instead it survived in its original form and is now Category A listed.  The Auchindrain Trust, a museum charity now runs and maintains the buildings and their surroundings.

Many of the structures have been maintained in their original form.  Others have been left much as they were when abandoned in the 1960s. 
Queen Victoria visited in 1875 whilst staying at Inveraray Castle.  Since then several thatched roofs have been replaced with corrugated iron - in some cased the corrugated iron has been placed directly on top of the former thatched roof which must have helped a little with insulation.

The byres still retain many of their original features and pens.  The warmth from the animals would help to heat the rest of the house.  People would have soon grown used to the smell (of the animals(!)) and the connecting internal door would save going outside to milk and tend in grim wet and wild weather.

In all there are around 22 buildings in various states of repair and some undergoing repair whilst we were there.  

The stonework on many of the buildings is of such high quality given the materials the stonemasons had to work with.  Random large round rocks fitted together in tight formation into a vertical windproof wall devoid of gaps.  Some massive stones to move in the process.

The museum is a ready made set for location filming and true to its origins.  Several productions have made use of its settings in the past.

Its a beautiful day so we take a drive up to Inveraray just over an hour away and 47 miles distant.  The run up Loch Lomondside on the A82 is stunning and we stop to admire the vista with Ben Lomond rising up to 3193ft (974m) across the water above the village of Rowardennan
At Tarbet, about half way up the loch the road forks.  Places called Tarbet or Tarbert in Scotland (from the Gaelic An Tairbeart)  are characterised by lying on an isthmus or short strip of land which separates two bodies of water.  In this case Loch Lomond and Loch Long are separated by a comparatively narrow stretch.  We take the left hand turning along the A83 and head towards Arrochar and Inveraray.

As we make our descent into Arrochar Village on the shore of Loch Long we can clearly see the peak of Ben Arthur, known locally as "The Cobbler" peeking above the hills on the far side of the loch.  The rock formations on the peak of Ben Arthur are said to represent a cobbler bending over his last.  
The pier at Arrochar whilst picturesque has seen better days.
We drive through Arrochar and head up the north side of Loch Long for a stretch before making the long climb up to the famous "Rest and Be Thankful".
 Legend has it that Queen Victoria on her tour of Scotland came to pass this pass.  The ascent up the old road (which can still be seen) was steep and difficult and on reaching the pass the monarch declared "Let us rest and be thankful"
Landslides have plagued the new road in recent years and hefty protective nets have been built into the hillside to catch any falling debris.

After Rest and Be Thankful the road descends and continues along the long level base of Glen Kinglas and joins the south shore of Loch Fyne.  A short journey round the head of this loch takes us to the famous Loch Fyne Oyster Bar at Cairndow.  This seafood shop and restaurant spurned a nationwide chain of restaurants which were sold off to Greene King, the pub retailer and brewer in 2006.  The Cairndow restaurant and shop however were not part of the deal and they retain their independence.  Well worth a visit for a good selection of fresh seafood.

A few miles after Cairndow we approach our first destination - Inveraray.  This old capital of Argyll county was where the county court and the jail were  - the premesis are now preserved and open to visitors.
The village stands on a promontory and was largely constructed in the mid 1700s under the direction of  the Duke of Argyle with designs by celebrated architects John Adam and Robert Mylne, the Church, Inveraray Hotel and Town House being attributed to the latter..

Another famous feature of Inveraray is of course Inveraray Castle.  Rebuilt on the site of the old castle the foundation stone was laid in October 1746 making it one of the earliest Gothic Revival buildings in the uk.  The original Inveraray village was moved to its present site at this stage to give the castle more privacy.
In 1975 a disastrous fire raged through the castle causing much damage.  The then 12th Duke and his family lived in the basement whilst repairs and reinstatements were carried out - partially funded by the Dukes foreign fund raising tours.

Tied up alongside the pier at Inveraray is the Vital Spark.  This ship is known as a puffer - with a flat bottom for running up onto beaches of islands which did possess a suitable pier, the boats were a mainstay of freight transport around the Western Isles and west coast of Scotland in the 1930-50s.  The boats inspired the fictional stories of the crafty skipper Para Handy by Neil Munro, initially published in the Glasgow Evening News before being put into book form and  several television series.  Built in 1944 this particular vessel was originally named Vic 72 then Elseda then Eilean Eisdeal before its current moniker.

After a welcome ice cream it was time to head a little further west - but that's for another blog.