Noticed this lovely mackerel sky just before sunset.
A sign that the weather is about to change. Rain forecast for tomorrow.
Starting from Strathblane - around 15 mins drive from Appletree Cottage
The first section of the route is a slow gentle climb out of Strathendrick. Nothing too severe - remember this was a railway and so any gradients were minimal. Trees overhang this pretty path and there are few people around - only the occasional dog walker.
What we are cycling is actually part of Sustrans Cycle Route 755 which runs from Strathblane to Kirkintilloch using the former railway trackbed.
It is not long until we are away from Strathblane and out of the trees into the wide open beginnings of Campsie Glen. The Campsie hills and Ballagan Burn are on the left as we cycle along, and on the right is the distinctive volcanic plug of Dunglass.. (See first/top photo) This basalt lump is popular with climbers despite much of its rock being in a loose and a little dangerous to the inexperienced.
Its a glorious day and the views are far and fantastic. The fields either side of the track are mostly put to grass for livestock with the occasional arable. The track itself is smooth tarmac and wide enough to two to cycle side by side.
Some of the signs refer to the Thomas Muir Way, obviously not to be confused with the John Muir way. Thomas Muir the Younger of Huntershill was a Scottish political reformer and lawyer (1765-1799). Known as the "Father of Democracy" more can be found out about his life here: www.theglasgowstory.com/story/?id=TGSCH12
John Muir or "John of the Mountains" on the other hand is credited for initiating the National Parks movement in the United States of America. More can be found out about John Muir here; en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Muir
Soon we reach Kirkintilloch where we lunch in the lovely Nonna's Restaurant and Bar picturesquely set beside the Forth and Clyde canal. After an excellent meal we jump back on our bikes and make our way back to Appletree Cottage.
Auchindrain from Appletree Cottage: 53 miles
Inhabited from at least the 1600s to the mid 1960s Auchindrain is possibly the only village to survive substantially unaltered since the highland clearances of the late 18th and the 19th centuries. We decided to pay it a visit The village is now preserved and is open in summer months Wednesday thru Sunday so we decided to pay a visit.
Located 6 miles west of Inveraray and 53 miles from Appletree Cottage it took us just over an hour to get there, a very pleasant and beautiful journey along the shores of Loch Lomond, Loch Long and Loch Fyne (see previous blog)
The site nestles in a hollow on the south side of the Inveraray to Lochgilphead road.
The village escaped plans of the mid 1700s which altered many dwellings in the district to crofts. Instead it survived in its original form and is now Category A listed. The Auchindrain Trust, a museum charity now runs and maintains the buildings and their surroundings.
Many of the structures have been maintained in their original form. Others have been left much as they were when abandoned in the 1960s.
Queen Victoria visited in 1875 whilst staying at Inveraray Castle. Since then several thatched roofs have been replaced with corrugated iron - in some cased the corrugated iron has been placed directly on top of the former thatched roof which must have helped a little with insulation.
Living accommodation in the houses was fairly basic - bedroom / living room kitchen / byre at the end of the building with its own door but also with an internal connecting door. Box beds were the order of the day with some cast iron bedsteads installed in later times.
The byres still retain many of their original features and pens. The warmth from the animals would help to heat the rest of the house. People would have soon grown used to the smell (of the animals(!)) and the connecting internal door would save going outside to milk and tend in grim wet and wild weather.
In all there are around 22 buildings in various states of repair and some undergoing repair whilst we were there.
The stonework on many of the buildings is of such high quality given the materials the stonemasons had to work with. Random large round rocks fitted together in tight formation into a vertical windproof wall devoid of gaps. Some massive stones to move in the process.
It is thought there was a grain mill on the other side of the burn from the main township. In the barns there is a good collection of early agricultural machinery with explanatory notes.
There are interesting outdoor features and more agricultural machinery lying here and there. All in all an excellent place to visit on a day out by Inveraray.
The museum is a ready made set for location filming and true to its origins. Several productions have made use of its settings in the past.
Inveraray: 47 miles from Appletree Cottage
Its a beautiful day so we take a drive up to Inveraray just over an hour away and 47 miles distant. The run up Loch Lomondside on the A82 is stunning and we stop to admire the vista with Ben Lomond rising up to 3193ft (974m) across the water above the village of Rowardennan
At Tarbet, about half way up the loch the road forks. Places called Tarbet or Tarbert in Scotland (from the Gaelic An Tairbeart) are characterised by lying on an isthmus or short strip of land which separates two bodies of water. In this case Loch Lomond and Loch Long are separated by a comparatively narrow stretch. We take the left hand turning along the A83 and head towards Arrochar and Inveraray.
As we make our descent into Arrochar Village on the shore of Loch Long we can clearly see the peak of Ben Arthur, known locally as "The Cobbler" peeking above the hills on the far side of the loch. The rock formations on the peak of Ben Arthur are said to represent a cobbler bending over his last.
The pier at Arrochar whilst picturesque has seen better days.
We drive through Arrochar and head up the north side of Loch Long for a stretch before making the long climb up to the famous "Rest and Be Thankful".
Legend has it that Queen Victoria on her tour of Scotland came to pass this pass. The ascent up the old road (which can still be seen) was steep and difficult and on reaching the pass the monarch declared "Let us rest and be thankful"
Landslides have plagued the new road in recent years and hefty protective nets have been built into the hillside to catch any falling debris.
After Rest and Be Thankful the road descends and continues along the long level base of Glen Kinglas and joins the south shore of Loch Fyne. A short journey round the head of this loch takes us to the famous Loch Fyne Oyster Bar at Cairndow. This seafood shop and restaurant spurned a nationwide chain of restaurants which were sold off to Greene King, the pub retailer and brewer in 2006. The Cairndow restaurant and shop however were not part of the deal and they retain their independence. Well worth a visit for a good selection of fresh seafood.
A few miles after Cairndow we approach our first destination - Inveraray. This old capital of Argyll county was where the county court and the jail were - the premesis are now preserved and open to visitors.
The village stands on a promontory and was largely constructed in the mid 1700s under the direction of the Duke of Argyle with designs by celebrated architects John Adam and Robert Mylne, the Church, Inveraray Hotel and Town House being attributed to the latter..
Another famous feature of Inveraray is of course Inveraray Castle. Rebuilt on the site of the old castle the foundation stone was laid in October 1746 making it one of the earliest Gothic Revival buildings in the uk. The original Inveraray village was moved to its present site at this stage to give the castle more privacy.
In 1975 a disastrous fire raged through the castle causing much damage. The then 12th Duke and his family lived in the basement whilst repairs and reinstatements were carried out - partially funded by the Dukes foreign fund raising tours.
Tied up alongside the pier at Inveraray is the Vital Spark. This ship is known as a puffer - with a flat bottom for running up onto beaches of islands which did possess a suitable pier, the boats were a mainstay of freight transport around the Western Isles and west coast of Scotland in the 1930-50s. The boats inspired the fictional stories of the crafty skipper Para Handy by Neil Munro, initially published in the Glasgow Evening News before being put into book form and several television series. Built in 1944 this particular vessel was originally named Vic 72 then Elseda then Eilean Eisdeal before its current moniker.
After a welcome ice cream it was time to head a little further west - but that's for another blog.