LUXURY SELF CATERING FOR EIGHT, FULLY EN-SUITE, LOCH LOMOND 2022
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Maid of the Loch successfully out of the water

17/9/2021

 
Picture
The Maid of the Loch on the slipway at Balloch
 The Maid of the Loch has been successfully winched out of the water for essential repairs and we went along to have a look whilst killing a few moments in Balloch.
The Maid is a paddle steamer and was the largest of its kind on Loch Lomond. Licensed for 1000 passengers, she was built at A&J Inglis on the Clyde and then dismantled for transportation to Loch Lomond.
The hull was floated up the Leven - just making it under Dumbarton bridge(!)  This was in the days before the weir at Balloch had been built.  The superstructure was transported partly by rail and the entire ship was then reassembled at Balloch and then launched into the waters of the loch on Thursday 5th March 1953
Self catering maid of the loch; Loch Lomond self catering
The 1902 steam winch house with The Maid of the Loch on the slipway

After many years of neglect The Maid of the Loch is currently undergoing extensive refit and refurbishment in anticipation of her once again ferrying passengers up and down the loch on pleasure cruises.  The ship has recently been lifted out of the water at Balloch using a 1902 built steam winch housed in its own building at the end of the slipway.  The winch is open to the public several days throughout the year and for a small fee you can toot the whistle.
.All went successfully on July 14th this year and the steamship was lifted out to the water as you can see in this video:
www.glasgowlive.co.uk/news/maid-loch-watch-iconic-paddle-21057071
However it was a different story in January 2019 when the boat broke free from the substructure and transporter which supported her and headed back into the water.
Crew had to jump to safety and out of the way of the 430 tone vessel.as she careered back down the slipway and into the water.
A video of that unhappy day can be seen here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSJtTRi43JM
For those interested in visiting the Grade A listed which house and having a toot on the whistle more information can be found here: www.maidoftheloch.org/steam-slipway-winch-house
group Self catering maid of the loch
The Maid up on the slipway. The stairway provides access for the Hard Hat Tours.
Although restoration work has been continuing for a number of years now there is still much to do on this majestic paddle steamer to once again make her ship shape for recommencing sailings up the loch.  Much of the deterioration appears superficial - that a coat of paint may fix.  Other renovations run much deeper - including the provision of a new boiler.
"Hard hat tours" are currently available around the interior of the ship and they can be booked here: www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/maid-of-the-loch-hard-hat-tour-tickets-169854843409?aff=esfb&utm-campaign=social&utm-content=attendeeshare&utm-medium=discovery&utm-source=fb&utm-term=checkoutwidget&fbclid=IwAR0A9CAlsCH0WFbQQAr-toh2mU0hAs7KXSbia18UB7D1awVVShzMpRfgyD4
Maid of the loch; Loch Lomond self catering group
Superficial rust patches on the superstructure
Recent good news is that with the aid of a steam boiler located on the adjacent shore it was possible for the crew to run the engines and turn the paddles and so check all was in order and ready for when a replacement boiler is located (or manufactured) and fitted on board.
Maid of the loch; group self catering Loch Lomond
One of the massive paddles showing how the angle of each board can be varied as the paddle wheel turns
The paddles which give the steamer its name appear to be in good order.  Paddle steamers were known for their manoeuvrability which aided docking.
However, the paddle steamers were less agile in rough seas as unlike their screw propellor cousins their paddles were apt to pop out of the water now and again in the choppy water making steering difficult..
The many small wheels of the supporting carriage can be seen in the bottom of the above picture.  They are secured every so often with wooden chocks to prevent the ship rolling back into the water.  A good thing.
More can be found out about The Maid of the Loch at the organisers website here: www.maidoftheloch.org. 
We look forward to when all the work is completed and The Maid of the Loch is once again able to offer tours up and down the length of Loch Lomond.
Group self catering; Maid of the loch self catering
A sultry day on Loch Lomond with the stern of The Maid on the right

Good clouds over Appletree Cottage this eve

8/9/2021

 
Luxury group self catering Loch Lomond
Mackerel sky above Appletree Cottage
Noticed this lovely mackerel sky just before sunset.
group self catering Loch Lomond
Need a wider lens!
A sign that the weather is about to change.  Rain forecast for tomorrow.
Picture

Cycle ride along old Strathendrick Railway line

8/9/2021

 

Starting from Strathblane - around 15 mins drive from Appletree Cottage

Cycling self catering Loch Lomond
Looking along the route of the former Strathendrick Railway with Dunglass on the right
Having often seen cyclists make their way along the former Strathendrick railway route along the base of Campsie Glen we decided to try it for ourselves.  
We started from Strathblane and although we could have cycled down the John Muir Way and West Highland Way to get there we decided to save time and drive there with the bikes.  
In Strathblane there is a very convenient car park opposite the church where we unloaded our bikes.
Group self catering Loch Lomond
Carpark next the church in Strathblane
Cycling self catering group accommodation
Entrance to our cycle route is in the corner of the carpark
Conveniently our route started in the corner of that same car park.  A couple of signposts / maps show the way.
The first descent is onto the former railway - just along from where the station used to be - the site now privately occupied.
Strathendrick and Blanefield are two separate villages, the latter growing up around a calico printing works, Strathendrick was historically the parish for
Mugdock, Netherton and  Edenkill.  The two villages nowadays appear to have become one but when the railway was open they each had their own stations called er... Strathendrick and Blanefield
The first section of the route is a slow gentle climb out of Strathendrick.  Nothing too severe - remember this was a railway and so any gradients were minimal.  Trees overhang this pretty path and there are few people around - only the occasional dog walker.
What we are cycling is actually part of Sustrans Cycle Route 755 which runs from Strathblane to Kirkintilloch using the former railway trackbed.
Self catering for cyclists Loch Lomond
The first section of Route 755 through the trees
It is not long until we are away from Strathblane and out of the trees into the wide open beginnings of Campsie Glen.   The Campsie hills and Ballagan Burn are on the left as we cycle along, and on the right is the distinctive volcanic plug of Dunglass..  (See first/top photo) This basalt lump is popular with climbers despite much of its rock being in a loose and a little dangerous to the inexperienced.
Cycling Loch Lomond and Trossachs national park
Open vistas along the beginnings of Campsie Glen
Its a glorious day and the views are far and fantastic.  The fields either side of the track are mostly put to grass for livestock with the occasional arable.  The track itself is smooth tarmac and wide enough to two to cycle side by side.
Cycling holiday Loch Lomond
Signposts show us the way
We cycle on for about another two and a half miles and come to a signpost.
Clachan of Campsie is a tiny hamlet up a short cul-de-sac.  There is a cafe with lots of outdoor seating and Wheelcraft - a cycle shop famous with the professional and touring cyclists.  Owned by Al Now for over thirty years they make cycle wheels to order - not many of them around.  Their service is excellent with years of experience between the friendly mechanics.
It is great to sit at a table in front of the cafe and watch the world pass by.
The X85 bus service from Buchanan St. Bust Station in Glasgow terminates and departs Clachan of Campsie every half hour and many take the trip to commence their walk into the Campsie hills 
Some of the signs refer to the Thomas Muir Way, obviously not to be confused with the John Muir way.  Thomas Muir the Younger of Huntershill was a Scottish political reformer and lawyer (1765-1799). Known as the "Father of Democracy" more can be found out about his life here: www.theglasgowstory.com/story/?id=TGSCH12
John Muir or "John of the Mountains"  on the other hand is  credited for initiating the National Parks movement in the United States of America. More can be found out about  John Muir here; en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Muir
Group cycling accommodation self catering
Clachan of Campsie Station still has its platforms
Milton of Campsie station is one of if not the only station on the line which has its platforms still semi-intact.  The villagers have looked after the station well.  Originally double track for passing the bridge has been re-enforced and now has a width suitable for the cycle path but little else.  A map on the wall of the bridge shows us the rail routes which existed in the area earlier in the 20th century.
We are cycling along the Strathendrick Railway which then joined up with the Aberfoyle Railway which opened up to cater for the famous slate quarries there - used with great effect as a location for the filming of ​Monty Python and the Holy Grail
Loch Lomond and Trossachs National Park accommodation
Railway Routes that used to be
Cycling routes Loch Lomond
Former viaduct for the Kelvin Railway
Not long after Milton of Campsie we pass under the remains of a viaduct belonging to the former Kelvin Railway which connected Kilsyth to Kirkintilloch and thence to Maryhill and Coatbridge.  Built to carry the bountiful coal traffic from Kilsyth to the ironworks further south the line also catered for passenger traffic until the line closed completely as many other routes did, in 1966.
Soon we reach Kirkintilloch where we lunch in the lovely Nonna's Restaurant and Bar picturesquely set beside the Forth and Clyde canal.  After an excellent meal we jump back on our bikes and make our way back to Appletree Cottage.
cycling self catering Loch Lomond
A very pleasant lunch was had in Nonna's Kitchen

Visit to the lost village of Auchindrain

3/9/2021

 

Auchindrain from Appletree Cottage: 53 miles

Auchindrain
One of the last houses to be inhabited at Auchindrain, vacated in the 1960s
Inhabited from at least the 1600s to the mid 1960s Auchindrain is possibly the only village to survive substantially unaltered since the highland clearances of the late 18th and the 19th centuries.  We decided to pay it a visit The village is now preserved and is open in summer months Wednesday thru Sunday so we decided to pay a visit.
Located 6 miles west of Inveraray and 53 miles from Appletree Cottage it took us just over an hour to get there, a very pleasant and beautiful journey along the shores of Loch Lomond, Loch Long and Loch Fyne (see previous blog)
The site nestles in a hollow on the south side of the Inveraray to Lochgilphead road.
The village escaped plans of the mid 1700s which altered many dwellings in the district to crofts.  Instead it survived in its original form and is now Category A listed.  The Auchindrain Trust, a museum charity now runs and maintains the buildings and their surroundings.
Auchindrain
Buildings are in various states of repair
Many of the structures have been maintained in their original form.  Others have been left much as they were when abandoned in the 1960s. 
Queen Victoria visited in 1875 whilst staying at Inveraray Castle.  Since then several thatched roofs have been replaced with corrugated iron - in some cased the corrugated iron has been placed directly on top of the former thatched roof which must have helped a little with insulation.
Auchindrain
Accommodation was basic but functional
Living accommodation in the houses was fairly basic - bedroom / living room kitchen / byre at the end of the building with its own door but also with an internal connecting door. Box beds were the order of the day with some cast iron bedsteads installed in later times.
Auchindrain, box beds, self catering
Box beds with curtains to keep out any draughts
The byres still retain many of their original features and pens.  The warmth from the animals would help to heat the rest of the house.  People would have soon grown used to the smell (of the animals(!)) and the connecting internal door would save going outside to milk and tend in grim wet and wild weather.
Auchindrain, early byre, cattle yolks
Cattle head locks remain in the byre
In all there are around 22 buildings in various states of repair and some undergoing repair whilst we were there.  
Auchindrain
Village was well spaced out with occasional walled vegetable plots
The stonework on many of the buildings is of such high quality given the materials the stonemasons had to work with.  Random large round rocks fitted together in tight formation into a vertical windproof wall devoid of gaps.  Some massive stones to move in the process.
Auchindrain
Some of the stonework is impressive given the materials at hand
 It is thought there was a grain mill on the other side of the burn from the main township.  In the barns there is a good collection of early agricultural machinery with explanatory notes.
There are interesting outdoor features and more agricultural machinery lying here and there.  All in all an excellent place to visit on a day out by Inveraray.

Auchindrain
A view into the past
Auchindrain, water heater
Primitive outside water heater
Auchindrain, hay rake, hay turner
Hay rake and hay turner on standby
The museum is a ready made set for location filming and true to its origins.  Several productions have made use of its settings in the past.
Auchindrain, Self Catering
A black house used for BBC produdions "The Scots of Dalriada" (1984) and "The Corries" (1988) has seen better days

A grand run up to Inveraray

3/9/2021

 

Inveraray: 47 miles from Appletree Cottage

Ben Lomond
Ben Lomond towers above the east shore of Loch Lomond
Its a beautiful day so we take a drive up to Inveraray just over an hour away and 47 miles distant.  The run up Loch Lomondside on the A82 is stunning and we stop to admire the vista with Ben Lomond rising up to 3193ft (974m) across the water above the village of Rowardennan
At Tarbet, about half way up the loch the road forks.  Places called Tarbet or Tarbert in Scotland (from the Gaelic An Tairbeart)  are characterised by lying on an isthmus or short strip of land which separates two bodies of water.  In this case Loch Lomond and Loch Long are separated by a comparatively narrow stretch.  We take the left hand turning along the A83 and head towards Arrochar and Inveraray.
The Cobbler, self catering
The distinct summit of The Cobbler with the remains of Arrochar Pier foreground
As we make our descent into Arrochar Village on the shore of Loch Long we can clearly see the peak of Ben Arthur, known locally as "The Cobbler" peeking above the hills on the far side of the loch.  The rock formations on the peak of Ben Arthur are said to represent a cobbler bending over his last.  
The pier at Arrochar whilst picturesque has seen better days.
We drive through Arrochar and head up the north side of Loch Long for a stretch before making the long climb up to the famous "Rest and Be Thankful".
 Legend has it that Queen Victoria on her tour of Scotland came to pass this pass.  The ascent up the old road (which can still be seen) was steep and difficult and on reaching the pass the monarch declared "Let us rest and be thankful"
Landslides have plagued the new road in recent years and hefty protective nets have been built into the hillside to catch any falling debris.
Loch Fyne oyster bar self catering
Loch Fyne Oyster Bar, Restaurant and Deli
After Rest and Be Thankful the road descends and continues along the long level base of Glen Kinglas and joins the south shore of Loch Fyne.  A short journey round the head of this loch takes us to the famous Loch Fyne Oyster Bar at Cairndow.  This seafood shop and restaurant spurned a nationwide chain of restaurants which were sold off to Greene King, the pub retailer and brewer in 2006.  The Cairndow restaurant and shop however were not part of the deal and they retain their independence.  Well worth a visit for a good selection of fresh seafood.
Inveraray
Inveraray village
A few miles after Cairndow we approach our first destination - Inveraray.  This old capital of Argyll county was where the county court and the jail were  - the premesis are now preserved and open to visitors.
The village stands on a promontory and was largely constructed in the mid 1700s under the direction of  the Duke of Argyle with designs by celebrated architects John Adam and Robert Mylne, the Church, Inveraray Hotel and Town House being attributed to the latter..
Inveraray
Main Street in Inveraray
Another famous feature of Inveraray is of course Inveraray Castle.  Rebuilt on the site of the old castle the foundation stone was laid in October 1746 making it one of the earliest Gothic Revival buildings in the uk.  The original Inveraray village was moved to its present site at this stage to give the castle more privacy.
In 1975 a disastrous fire raged through the castle causing much damage.  The then 12th Duke and his family lived in the basement whilst repairs and reinstatements were carried out - partially funded by the Dukes foreign fund raising tours.
Inveraray Castle
The present Inveraray Castle dates back to 1746
Tied up alongside the pier at Inveraray is the Vital Spark.  This ship is known as a puffer - with a flat bottom for running up onto beaches of islands which did possess a suitable pier, the boats were a mainstay of freight transport around the Western Isles and west coast of Scotland in the 1930-50s.  The boats inspired the fictional stories of the crafty skipper Para Handy by Neil Munro, initially published in the Glasgow Evening News before being put into book form and  several television series.  Built in 1944 this particular vessel was originally named Vic 72 then Elseda then Eilean Eisdeal before its current moniker.
The Vital Spark, Inveraray, Para Handy
After a welcome ice cream it was time to head a little further west - but that's for another blog.

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